Dunkirk
The northernmost town in France is home to 200,000 people, some dramatic
creations at the Contemporary Art Museum, and perhaps the best moules frites
in France. It also has a superb beach (Dunkirk is a Flemish name, meaning
the church on the dunes) which offers easy access to picturesque towns such
as Bergues, France?s uncrowded alternative to Bruges. Yet many British
travellers know of it only because of the evacuation of 300,000 servicemen
in 1940. ( Read more... )
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The urban scene
Once a sleepy fishing port, the capital, Arrecife, still has a low-key
vibe, despite the island's airport being on its outskirts. The town beach ?
Playa de Reducto ? is encircled by a pleasant promenade and the town centre
has a selection of small boutiques to browse. Check out the gallery Castillo
de San Jose and Museo Internacional del Arte Contemporaneo, housed in an
18th-century castle. Its restoration was instigated by late artist Cesar ( Read more... )
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The whales' foreskins were made into seat covers by the yacht's late owner, the Greek shipping magnate Aristotle Onassis. It was a dubious joke but one that tickled the billionaire, who would jump at the chance of showing a female guest to a stool ? Greta Garbo, Grace Kelly, Marilyn Monroe, whoever had swung by for drinks ? and apparently declare: "Madame, you are sitting on the largest penis in the world."
Those poor old whales didn't just offer up their foreskins ( Read more... )
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Look out for the many top-flight religious sights in Armenia, one of the ancient centres of civilisation.
Echmiadzin
The country's former capital and religious centre is home to the Supreme Catholicos of the Armenian Apostolic Orthodox faith, who rule the roost from the mighty Echmiadzin cathedral and seminary. Don't miss the religious paraphernalia on display in the Museum of Holy Relics.
By car: follow the road west from Yerevan and look for signs; journey time approx ( Read more... )
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Why go now?
With a mild climate typical of the south of France, the attractive walled city of Carcassonne is an appealing and accessible destination for an out-of-season weekend. The Gauls, Romans, Moors and Cathars have left their mark on the place and contributed to its atmosphere ? but the restaurants and shops ensure that there is more to Carcassonne than just history.
Touch down
The only airline with direct flights from the UK is Ryanair ( Read more... )
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Lanzarote
Lanzarote's most famous son, the artist and designer César Manrique, was a man with a strong sense of place. "I believe that we are witnessing a historic moment," he said in 1987, "where the huge danger to the environment is so evident that we must conceive a new responsibility with respect to the future." But words were not enough; he'd decided to do something about it.
Manrique was born 90 years ago in Arrecife, Lanzarote's capital. He studied ( Read more... )
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The demise of the service that once connected Paris with Asia will be mourned by a few old romantics. But next weekend, when the updated Europe-wide timetables take effect, many more people will be celebrating a new age of the train.
The Orient Express has been axed partly because of erosion of its market by
the no-frills airlines, but more pertinently because of the spread of
high-speed lines across Europe. Two key links open next weekend,
accelerating trains through ( Read more... )
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Fantastic. Prepared for the worst, I stepped inside. Rather irritatingly, it was beautiful. It helped that it was a Thursday afternoon, and the sparse crowds comprised happy, well-behaved children and smiling, well-dressed adults. Helped, too, that the park is filled with trees, that its oldest buildings date from the 18th century ? and that velvety, forgiving darkness falls early in these parts at this time of year. But more importantly, it was done so well, from the smart red and white huts ( Read more... )
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Set at the western end of Lake Geneva, Switzerland's second city is spectacularly sandwiched between the mighty Alps and Jura mountains. And while its population falls just short of 200,000, it still has all the assets of a major world hub, catering for the high-spending tastes of the international workforce employed here by global giants such as Procter & Gamble and leading world organisations including the UN and Red Cross.
But it's not just about high-rollers. In sharp ( Read more... )
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Ricardo Bofill's new terminal, barely out of its wrapping, at Barcelona's El Prat airport is not short on ambition; it is part of a masterplan to increase passenger capacity to more than 70 million a year. The vast complex looks thoroughly 21st century with acres of granite, aluminium and glass. It hums with efficiency and is, we are told, sustainable to the Nth degree. But where is the X factor?
Bofill's terminal will win few votes in a play-off against Richard Rogers' ( Read more... )
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Thomson Ski
3,872: Formigal, Spanish Pyrenees
Includes flights from Gatwick to Huesca, transfers and a week's half board in
a quadruple room at the four-star Hotel Abba. A free lift pass and ski hire
for one child (aged under 12 years) is offered when one adult books a lift
pass and hire (saving of 418 per family). "The hotel has an indoor
swimming pool, sauna, restaurant with valley views, Wi-Fi and a children's
play room. Formigal is a short transfer ( Read more... )
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If, like most visitors, you?ve travelled up from the coast, be prepared for
the thinness of the air and, in the morning at least, a significant drop in
temperature. From November until March the higher slopes are snow-covered,
while in late autumn (when I did the walk) the first stretch along an
undemanding zig-zagging 4x4 track was decorated with ice-covered bushes,
which glinted and sparkled in the low sun. The flora of the volcano is
sparse, either very hard-wearing like ( Read more... )
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He stares slightly away from the camera lens, a look suggesting irritation that the army has forced him to have his picture taken. On his grave lie two dried-out yellow flowers.
The majority of the hundreds of headstones in Yerablur cemetery have a reproduction print of the deceased's face on them. Here lie the Armenian victims of the Nagorno-Karabakh War, which waged for six years to 1994, when an unofficial ceasefire was reached.
Armenia and ( Read more... )
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WHERE AND WHEN DID THEY START?
Christmas markets are thought to have originated in Germany. They developed from the traditional winter markets at which people could meet to buy and sell local produce and home-made decorations crafted out of wood, straw and tin. There was a December market in Vienna as early as 1294, although it was very different, in content and location, from the modern Viennese Christkindlmarkt, or Christmas market, (00 43 1 24555;
So it seemed the perfect time to visit Burgundy's world famous vineyards. Touring any area of vines around harvest time is a unique experience. But the whole of Burgundy seems to take on a particular allure at this time of year and a visit to this part of France is a rare treat.
I started in Beaune, a town that has grown wealthy on the back of wine
production. It is an intriguing amalgam of old French architecture,
spectacular clocks and shops crammed with every artifice ( Read more... )
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Once a comrade was evidently of no further use to the regime, they could
legally be shipped out of the country, usually to be buried by relatives in
the West. The prescribed route to posthumous freedom was across the land
frontier at Helmstedt, a sprawling scar on the hills that ripple from Berlin
across to Hanover. But the Communist authorities wanted to ensure that the
recently departed was not merely resting and seeking a surreptitious
departure from the tyranny of the East ( Read more... )
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Is there much to explore?
Think banana plantations, cacti, dunes and volcanoes. Five out of the seven islands (Lanzarote, Fuerteventura, La Palma, El Hierro and Gran Canaria) are wholly or partly listed as Unesco biosphere reserves in recognition of their remarkable landscapes and unusual flora and fauna.
La Palma, in the thinly populated western Canaries, has such clear skies that
it's one of the best places in the northern hemisphere for stargazing. El ( Read more... )
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Christmas is coming and I want to see Santa
To meet the genial man in red, complete with the full works of reindeer,
jingling sleigh, enticing parcels and much snow, head to northern
Scandinavia. St Nicholas, the protector of children, morphed into roly-poly
Santa Claus in the 19th century. He actually hailed from Myra in
south-western Turkey. Yet over the last two decades or so, Lapland has
become regarded as the traditional homeland of Santa. That is partly because ( Read more... )
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Well, said mankind, we can think big, too. The Pirámides de Gímar were an
impressive first attempt: ancient relics of the indigenous Guanche society,
they can still be seen just off the main TF-1 motorway that runs along the
eastern seaboard. Then came the Spanish, with the gracious colonial city of
La Laguna, followed by Santa Cruz, the capital. Much later the vast resorts
of Playa de las Amricas, Los Cristianos and the Costa Adeje sprang up:
playgrounds for tourists that have ( Read more... )
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